Nimes - A Roman holidayh (in France)

languedoc-roussillon — Fri, 27 Mar 2009 11:35:00 +0000

Nîmes - A Roman Holiday (in France)

Journalist and Author, Nicola Christinger, offers an insight into the city which combines Roman, Mediterranean and Provencale influences and why she has made it her home.

Dating back to the 2nd century BC, this capital city of the Gard in the Languedoc-Roussillon department of southern France was discovered by the Emperor Augustus. Since then it has maintained the title of being the most important Roman city, outside of Rome and is not only a popular holiday destination but home for many people looking to live in the Languedoc.

The “Nîmois” (the locals) are fiercely proud of their traditions and the city excels because of the many different influences that all join together to make it such a vibrant, cultural, gastronomic heaven. Although there are many Roman historical buildings throughout the city, the most impressive is the Arena of Nîmes (Les Arènes), an amphitheatre that was constructed in around 70AD and remodelled in 1863 to serve primarily as a bullring. It can seat 16,000 spectators and the people of Nîmes take the bullfighting sport extremely seriously. The most important two dates in the bullfighting calendar of Nîmes is the Feria de Pencote, which takes place during the end of May whitsun weekend, and the other is the Feria des Vendanges, organised for the 3rd weekend of September to celebrate the grape harvest.

I got my “dummies guide to bullfighting” last September, when I attended the ‘Feria’ with my Nîmois neighbour, a resident here since 30 years. I had initially said that although it fascinated me, I wasn’t sure I was quite ready to watch a bull being taunted and killed. He nodded sympathetically (obviously privately he thought I was mad) and said that I would be missing out. As we wandered past the Arena, we could hear the crowds inside cheering and clapping then all of a sudden silence would fall. In bullfighting decorum you can’t just pay for one bullfight, you pay for the whole event which is up to 6 bullfights in one sitting – just a little bit too much bull killing for my liking. Suddenly, the gates to the entrance of the arena were thrown open and hastily my neighbour grabbed my arm and quickly explained that it was free to anyone wanting to watch the last bullfight of the event. We ran up the steps and took our place, squeezing into the standing room only centimetres of space left in the gangways. Every single seat was taken, every last standing place was occupied, the music faded, a hush descended and in galloped his majesty, the bull - all 500 kilograms of him.

“Go back, turn around, before it’s too late” I wanted to shout, but then after several minutes the atmosphere became so tense and exciting I was mesmerised.  There are some basic rules to bullfighting; the first is to know that the Matador (mata in Spanish means killer) uses the red cloak to obtain control over the bull (known as the ‘passing phase’) and it is he that starts and finishes the fight.  The second is that just the right amount of “ooohing” and “aaahing” in the right places are essential.  It is not a place to throw caution to the wind and shout your own appreciation – it is a crowd decision.

Armed with these basic facts and after a lot of ceremony, dancing and taunting from men in tightly fitted colourful outfits, the bull finally gave in. As the “show” finished, my neighbour handed me a white handkerchief whereupon I smiled but shook my head defiantly and declined his offer. Surprisingly, I wasn’t the least bit tearful but he insisted and pressed it into my hands. Seconds later the arena was filled with spectators waving their white handkerchiefs – a sign of their appreciation and taken into account by the judging panel. The more white handkerchiefs are waved the bigger the honour for the Matador. Another tip, always listen to the locals.

There are such strong, clear influences on the lifestyle in Nîmes, not only Roman and Hispanic. Although still in Languedoc, it is a border town and is considered part of Provence. The region famous for fragrances, culinary delights and olive trees extends its delicious tastes and smells throughout the city. The passion and influence of the Mediterranean also reveals itself through the architecture, tradition and language in Nîmes. The coast, Le Grau du Roi and La Grande Motte are half an hour away by car and the captivating region of the Camargue, with its docile white horses and flamingos are to be seen in the surrounding villages just outside the city.

On the hills that overlook the city, many luxurious villas and beautiful estates keep a watchful eye over the grandeur below and exclusive areas such as La Tour Magne and Quai de la Fontaine are highly sought after. It is a true city of crossings, where all roads meet. Just north of the city is the town of Uzès, Remoulins and the famous Roman aqueduct the Pont du Gard and to the east are Arles and Tarascon. Heading south brings you to the Mediterranean and vivacious city of Montpellier and out to the west will bring you to the magnificent nature park in the Cevennes hills.

I came to Nimes on holiday, every year since 2003 for five years and now after eight months of living here, I am proud to call it home. The atmosphere and traditions of an energetic city combined with culture, sophistication and stunning countryside make it a fascinating place to live. The locals are open, friendly and only to keen to offer their advice – and a very good way to do a crash course in French language learning! My two children started French school in the city, unable to speak much more than a ‘bonjour’ and ‘au revoir’ and after eight months the youngest girl now corrects me in the supermarket and the older girl runs up the telephone bill discussing boys and what to wear with all her teenage friends. My French may not be perfect but I am proud to shrug my shoulders and sigh heavily like a local.

Nîmes holds on to its deep-rooted identity, diversity and exuberance to ensure that it remains unique and, like its roman architecture, original.

Information: For a selection of luxury property in Nimes: www.home-hunts.com

Restaurants: L’imprevu : Place d’assas. Tel: 04 66 38 99 59 Restaurant au Chapon Fin : 3 rue du Château Fadaise. Tel : Tel : 04 66 673 473 Chez Jacotte : 15 rue Fresque. Tel : 04 66 21 64 59 Le Lisita : 2 boulevard des Arenes. Tel : 04 66 67 29 15 Casa Bella : 6 place de la Revolution. Tel : 04 66 67 64 68 La Bodeguita : 3 boulevard Alphonse Daudet. Tel: 04 66 58 28 27

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Nimes - A Roman holidayh (in France)

Nîmes - A Roman Holiday (in France)

Journalist and Author, Nicola Christinger, offers an insight into the city which combines Roman, Mediterranean and Provencale influences and why she has made it her home.